What oil should I use on a sword?

Food-grade mineral oil, camellia oil or a purpose-made blade oil. All three are acid-free and will not gum. Avoid vegetable oils, which turn rancid and sticky.

How do I remove rust from a sword without damaging it?

Work the spot with oil and a soft cloth first. If it persists, use 0000-grade steel wool with oil, stroking only along the blade's length. Never use acid, abrasives or a wire brush on a finished blade.

Should I store a sword in its scabbard?

Not long term in a leather scabbard — tanning salts hold moisture against the steel. Store on a rack or in a wooden scabbard, horizontally or edge-up, in a dry room.

How often should a sword be oiled?

Every one to three months for stored carbon steel, every six months for stainless, and immediately after any cutting or handling. Halve those intervals in humid climates.

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How to Clean a Sword: Step by Step in 10 Minutes

Ten minutes of care is the difference between an heirloom and a rusted disappointment.

How often

After every handling: wipe the blade. Fingerprints are the single most common cause of permanent staining on carbon steel.

After every cutting session: clean and re-oil the same day. Water, sap and mat fibre are all corrosive.

Every one to three months for a stored carbon blade; every six months for stainless. Damp climates halve both intervals.

What not to do

Do not use household abrasives, scouring pads, wire brushes or rust-removal acids on a finished blade. They strip polish permanently.

Do not put any blade in a dishwasher, ever. Heat, detergent and steam ruin edges, handles and fittings together.

Do not over-oil a wooden-hilted or wrapped grip. Oil softens glue and darkens cord.

Do not confuse patina with rust. Grey-blue patina is protective; orange or red powder is corrosion and must come off.

The method, in order

01Unsheathe and inspect in good lightDraw the blade fully and turn it under a lamp. Look for grey fingerprint shadows, orange freckles of rust and any moisture trapped near the guard. Never clean a blade you cannot see clearly.
02Wipe the old oil awayRun a soft cotton cloth or a lint-free rag from guard to tip along the flat, never across the edge. Old oil holds dust and grit, and grit is what scratches a polish.
03Lift fingerprints with alcoholDampen a cloth with isopropyl alcohol and wipe the whole blade. Skin oils are mildly acidic and will etch a permanent print into carbon steel within days. Let the blade dry completely.
04Take off light rustWork orange spots gently with a cloth and a little oil. For stubborn spots use 0000-grade steel wool with oil, moving only along the length of the blade. Stop before you dull the finish.
05Oil the steelApply a thin film of mineral oil, camellia oil or a purpose-made blade oil on a clean cloth. A film is enough; a puddle collects dust and creeps into the scabbard lining.
06Care for grip and scabbardWipe leather with a barely damp cloth and treat it two or three times a year with leather conditioner. Never store a blade in a leather sheath long term — tanning salts hold moisture against steel.
07Store it correctlyStore horizontally or edge-up in a dry room, out of a closed leather scabbard, and away from exterior walls and basements. A silica pack in the display case earns its keep.

The wall this cry speaks of

The Long Blades

Asked of the house

What oil should I use on a sword?: Food-grade mineral oil, camellia oil or a purpose-made blade oil. All three are acid-free and will not gum. Avoid vegetable oils, which turn rancid and sticky.
How do I remove rust from a sword without damaging it?: Work the spot with oil and a soft cloth first. If it persists, use 0000-grade steel wool with oil, stroking only along the blade's length. Never use acid, abrasives or a wire brush on a finished blade.
Should I store a sword in its scabbard?: Not long term in a leather scabbard — tanning salts hold moisture against the steel. Store on a rack or in a wooden scabbard, horizontally or edge-up, in a dry room.
How often should a sword be oiled?: Every one to three months for stored carbon steel, every six months for stainless, and immediately after any cutting or handling. Halve those intervals in humid climates.

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